Bekko koi
Bekko

Bekko

Nishikigoi Identification Guide

Explore the elegant Bekko koi variety, featuring Shiro, Aka, and Ki Bekko. Learn about their tortoise-shell Sumi patterns.

The Bekko is a quintessential variety of Nishikigoi, celebrated for its elegant simplicity and striking contrast. Defined by a solid, single-color base adorned with distinct black markings known as Sumi, the Bekko is often described as the "inverse" of the Utsuri variety. The name itself translates to "tortoise shell," a nod to the scattered, ink-like spots that populate its body. There are three primary sub-varieties within the Bekko category: Shiro Bekko (white base), Aka Bekko (red base), and Ki Bekko (yellow base). Among these, the Shiro Bekko is perhaps the most widely recognized and sought after, often appearing as a companion to Kohaku or Sanke in professional ponds. The Sumi on a high-quality Bekko should be deep, glossy, and concentrated above the lateral line and off the head; the fins are generally white but may carry thin black stripes (Tejima). Unlike the Sanke, which it closely resembles, the Bekko lacks the vibrant red Hi markings, focusing purely on the interplay between its primary base color and the dark Sumi. Historically, the Bekko was developed through selective breeding of Sanke offspring that lacked red pigment, eventually becoming a stable variety in its own right. Breeders such as Marudo and Shinoda have refined the variety to ensure that the base color remains pristine—whether it is the snowy white of the Shiro or the deep, saturated crimson of the Aka. The Ki Bekko remains a rarity, cherished by collectors for its vibrant sunshine hue. In a pond, the Bekko provides a sophisticated visual balance, acting as a serene anchor among more flashily patterned koi. Achieving the perfect balance of Sumi placement is the hallmark of a champion Bekko, requiring years of careful observation and genetic selection by Japanese masters.

Keeping Bekko koi in Southern California

The black (sumi) on these koi can change from season to season. Water temperature, water hardness and minerals all play a part, and a shift in sumi is normal rather than a sign of illness.

Sources disagree on how much sumi moves. One breeder describes true sumi as "stable for the most part", while a Japanese koi-supplement maker says harder water brings sumi out.

The white areas on Shiro Utsuri, Showa and Shiro Bekko carry the same sun risk as Kohaku white skin, so give them partial shade in summer.

Summer care for every koi in SoCal
  • Warm water holds less oxygen, yet koi need more oxygen as the water warms. That makes summer the season when oxygen runs shortest.
  • Oxygen is usually lowest around dawn, because plants and algae use it up overnight. In summer, keep air stones, waterfalls or fountains running day and night.
  • When oxygen runs short, large fish are often the first affected. The bigger and faster-growing your koi, the more aeration matters.
  • Published "ideal" ranges vary between sources, from about 59–77°F to 68–78°F. Most sources treat the low-to-mid 80s °F as the point where you should cut feeding, add shade and add aeration.
  • At about 82°F and above, feed less than usual. Koi can lose their appetite at 86°F and above, so offer small amounts of an easily digested food and remove anything left uneaten.
  • Shade part of the pond, but not all of it, from the afternoon sun. A shade sail, pergola or floating plants will do. Don't enclose the surface so tightly that air can't move over it.
  • Inland SoCal is much hotter than the coast. NOAA's 1991–2020 normals give an average July–August afternoon high of about 95–97°F in Riverside, 83–85°F in Santa Ana and 75–77°F at LAX (air temperature). Inland ponds therefore need the heat measures above sooner and for longer.

Key Traits

# Solid base color in White (Shiro), Red (Aka), or Yellow (Ki)# Deep black Sumi spots scattered across the back# Sumi localized primarily above the lateral line# Clean head; fins may carry thin black stripes (Tejima)# Tortoise-shell pattern appearance

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